Cartier Panthère de Cartier WJPN0085 18k Yellow Gold Diamond-Set Bezel

The Panthère de Cartier — a jewellery icon since 1983

Few watches have crossed the boundary between timepiece and jewellery as completely as the Panthère de Cartier. It launched in 1983 at a moment when Cartier was consolidating its dual identity as a watchmaker and high jewellery house, and it arrived as an object that refused to choose between the two. The case was square — a form shared with the Santos de Cartier and immediately recognisable as Cartier — but the defining element was the bracelet: an articulated five-link construction in gold that moved in continuous, fluid waves against the wrist and gave the watch its name. Panthère — panther in French — describes not merely the watch’s persona but the physical sensation of the bracelet itself, which Cartier describes as echoing the rippling movement of the big cat’s body in motion.

Cartier’s relationship with the panther began in 1914, when the motif appeared in the Maison’s archives in the form of a diamond-and-onyx bracelet watch whose patterning evoked a panther’s coat. Jeanne Toussaint, Cartier’s Creative Director in the 1930s and known internally as La Panthère, shaped the motif into some of the most celebrated articulated jewellery pieces in the Maison’s history. The 1983 watch draws directly from this lineage — the panther is not a marketing device here but an organising principle running from the first half of the twentieth century through to the current generation.

The Panthère sold through nearly two decades before being discontinued in 2004. It was reintroduced in 2017, largely unchanged from the original, to an audience that included a new generation of collectors who had spent years seeking vintage examples on the secondary market. The relaunch confirmed what that market already knew: the Panthère had not aged. In 2026 it continues unchanged in design and unchanged in its position at the top of the Cartier dress-watch and jewellery-watch hierarchy.

WJPN0085 — the medium model in 18k yellow gold with diamond-set bezel

The WJPN0085 is the medium Panthère in 18k yellow gold (750/1000) with a full diamond-set bezel and diamond crown — the configuration that places this reference at the highest level of the current standard Panthère range.

The case measures 27 mm × 36 mm, 6 mm thick. The square form is the Panthère’s defining shape, unchanged across its entire production history: rounded at the corners, proportioned to read as both watch and wrist jewellery simultaneously. On the WJPN0085, a full surround of brilliant-cut diamonds in yellow gold settings is applied to the bezel, adding light and depth to the case without altering the geometry. The crown carries a single diamond. The sapphire crystal is square-shaped to follow the case outline.

The dial is silvered and classical: Roman numerals in a railway-track chapter ring, blued-steel sword-shaped hands. No stones on the dial — the WJPN0085 is a clean bezel-only diamond reference. The same dial configuration has been produced since 1983. The caseback is solid.

The integrated bracelet flows directly from the case lugs into the characteristic five-link articulation, secured by a double-deployant clasp (DD-TD) in 5N yellow gold. Water resistance is 3 bar / 30 metres.

The watch in detail

• Reference: WJPN0085 (official Cartier prefix: CRWJPN0085)
• Collection: Panthère de Cartier
• Model size: Medium
• Year: Q4 2026, brand new, unworn
• Case: 18k yellow gold (750/1000), square
• Case width: 27 mm
• Case length: 36 mm
• Case thickness: 6.4 mm
• Crystal: Sapphire, square
• Caseback: Solid
• Bezel: 18k yellow gold, brilliant-cut diamond set (full surround)
• Crown: Set with one brilliant-cut diamond
• Dial: Silvered; Roman numeral indices; railway-track chapter ring
• Hands: Blued-steel, sword-shaped
• Movement: Cartier Calibre 157, Swiss quartz
• Frequency: 32,768 Hz
• Jewels: 4
• Functions: Hours, minutes (central hands)
• Bracelet: 18k yellow gold (750/1000), five-link articulated
• Clasp: Double-deployant (DD-TD), 5N yellow gold
• Water resistance: 3 bar / approx. 30 metres
• Condition: Brand new, unworn
• Set: Full set — Cartier box and papers
• Cartier guarantee: 2 years international

Cartier Calibre 157 — Swiss quartz, purpose-built for the Panthère

The WJPN0085 runs on Cartier Calibre 157, a Swiss-made quartz movement designed for slim-profile dress watches. It operates at 32,768 Hz with four jewels, delivering hours and minutes via central hands. The movement measures 15.80 mm in diameter, which allows the 6 mm case thickness that makes the Panthère bracelet drape as designed. Battery replacement is the only routine maintenance required.

Quartz is the correct specification for the Panthère — not a compromise. The watch’s role is jewellery-watch first, and a slim mechanical movement would require either a deeper case or a smaller diameter, both of which would compromise the proportions that define the reference. The Calibre 157 has powered the Panthère consistently; it is how the watch is meant to function.

Brand new 2026 — below Australian retail

This example is brand new and unused. It is presented in full factory condition with no signs of use. The Australian retail price for the WJPN0085 is AU$59,500. Calibre24 is offering it for much below that — a saving of AU$10,000 on a current-generation, freshly dated reference.

Brand-new Panthère de Cartier examples in 18k yellow gold with a diamond-set bezel do not commonly appear at such pricing. At the official Cartier boutique price, the WJPN0085 commands the full AU$59,500 with no discount available. At discount, this is a meaningful entry point for a watch that carries both jewellery content and the Cartier brand premium that underpins its long-term value.

Full set — Cartier box and papers included.

Buying from Calibre24

Calibre24 is a Perth-based dealer specialising in pre-owned and new luxury timepieces, including Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, Vacheron Constantin, and Cartier. Every piece is authenticated in-house before listing. This WJPN0085 ships fully insured to any address in Australia. Viewings by appointment in Perth. Trade-in and consignment available.

FAQs

What is the Cartier Panthère de Cartier WJPN0085? The WJPN0085 is the medium-model Panthère de Cartier in 18k yellow gold with a brilliant-cut diamond-set bezel and diamond-set crown. It measures 27 × 36 mm, 6 mm thick, runs on the Cartier Calibre 157 Swiss quartz movement (32,768 Hz), and features a silvered dial with Roman numerals and an articulated yellow gold bracelet with double-deployant clasp. It is a current-production reference in Cartier’s Panthère de Cartier collection.

How much does the Cartier Panthère WJPN0085 cost in Australia? The Australian retail price for the Cartier Panthère de Cartier WJPN0085 is AU$59,500. Calibre24 is currently offering a brand-new, unworn 2026 example for AU$49,500 — AU$10,000 below the official Cartier boutique price.

What is the difference between the Cartier Panthère small, medium, and large models? Cartier produces the current Panthère de Cartier in three case sizes. The small model measures 22 mm × 30 mm, the medium model (WJPN0085 and related references) measures 27 mm × 36 mm, and the large model measures 36 mm × 47 mm. The medium is the most widely stocked and widely worn size — it offers clear visual presence on a range of wrist sizes without the large model’s more formal scale. All three sizes share the same five-link articulated gold bracelet construction and Calibre 157 quartz movement.

What movement does the Cartier Panthère WJPN0085 use? The WJPN0085 uses Cartier Calibre 157, a Swiss-made quartz movement with a 32,768 Hz operating frequency and four jewels. It measures 15.80 mm in diameter and drives hours and minutes on central hands. Battery replacement is the only maintenance the movement requires under normal use. Quartz is the standard specification for the entire Panthère de Cartier collection — no mechanical variant exists in the current standard range.

What is the history of the Panthère de Cartier? The Panthère de Cartier launched in 1983, drawing on a panther motif that Cartier had used in fine jewellery since 1914. The panther became the Maison’s most recognised animal symbol under Creative Director Jeanne Toussaint in the 1930s — she was nicknamed La Panthère within Cartier. The 1983 watch defined 1980s power-dressing and was worn by figures including Pierce Brosnan, Keith Richards, Gwyneth Paltrow, and Madonna. It was discontinued in 2004 and reintroduced in 2017, largely unchanged, with the current generation continuing from 2017 to the present day.

Why does the Cartier Panthère have a square case? The Panthère’s square (more precisely, rounded-square) case is a Cartier signature that connects the watch to the Santos de Cartier — the reference that established the shaped-case tradition at the Maison in 1904. On the Panthère, the square case is designed to flow directly into the articulated gold bracelet, removing any visible boundary between watch and bracelet. The shape has not changed since the 1983 original.

What is the bracelet on the Cartier Panthère WJPN0085? The bracelet is 18k yellow gold (750/1000) in Cartier’s signature five-link articulated construction. The articulation is what gives the Panthère its name: the bracelet moves in continuous, fluid waves against the wrist, echoing the supple movement of a panther’s body. It is secured by a double-deployant (DD-TD) clasp in 5N yellow gold. The bracelet on the WJPN0085 carries no stones — the diamonds are on the bezel and crown only, keeping the bracelet clean and tactile.

Is the Cartier Panthère WJPN0085 water resistant? Yes. The WJPN0085 is rated to 3 bar, equivalent to approximately 30 metres. This provides adequate protection for everyday wear and incidental water exposure but is not rated for swimming or submersion. As a fine jewellery timepiece with a diamond-set bezel, the Panthère is designed for dress and daily wear rather than water activities.

What does full set mean for a Cartier Panthère? Full set means the watch is presented with its original Cartier presentation box, warranty card, and all paperwork as supplied by Cartier at the point of sale. For a brand-new 2026 example, the warranty card confirms the watch’s authenticity and entitlement to Cartier’s two-year international guarantee, which is extendable to eight years with Cartier Care registration. Full set documentation is the standard expectation for any unworn watch at this price level and is relevant to both resale value and ownership peace of mind.

Can I sell or trade in my Cartier at Calibre24? Yes. Calibre24 buys and takes consignment on Cartier and other luxury brands including Rolex, Patek Philippe, and Audemars Piguet. Contact us for a current valuation.